All surfaces to be oiled or painted should first be cleaned with a paint cleaner. If the surfaces are affected by fungus, they are cleaned with a special mould detergent. Rinse thoroughly with water.
Old, flaky paint is scraped off. In corners and angles you can use a small triangular scraper, in larger areas a larger paint scraper. Then sand the surfaces with an abrasive paper to remove any fibre residue and unevenness.
Do not paint on a hot wall or in direct sunlight. The paint dries too quickly and does not have time to adhere properly. Then the paint does not protect as intended.
This is especially important when you are using oil paint, which must penetrate the wood before it dries. You may also expose yourself to unnecessary solvent fumes. This is particularly true of old-fashioned linseed oil paint and sometimes linseed oil based alkyd paint.
For paint to adhere properly, the substrate must be clean, dry and firm. Otherwise, you may end up painting a cap of paint over moisture and dirt, which will cause the paint to crack and flake quickly. Usually you just scrape off the bad-looking surfaces. If the previous layer of paint is good, it will serve as a base for new paint.
However, there may be so many layers of paint that the whole thing risks losing its grip and coming loose. All that remains is to scrape off all the layers of paint. You can easily test if you need to scrape e.g. a wooden facade. Cut a sample of a 1 cm thick grid pattern where the facade looks tarnished. If the paint in the squares comes off, the fastener is bad. If you scrape so the wood shows, the wood must be impregnated with base oil. Also remember that the paint you scrape off may be toxic. Keep small children away and wear both safety glasses and respiratory protection. One tip is to cover the ground underneath with plastic so you don’t have to pick up paint chips in the flowerbed afterwards.
Avoid oiling the surfaces in strong sunlight. This allows the oil to dry before it has penetrated the wood. Also, don’t start oiling too late in the evening, as there is a risk that the dew will settle on the surface before it has time to dry.
To clean the facade from dirt, mould and peeling paint, you need to wash with a paint or mould remover. Then scrape off any loose paint with a paint scraper. Wood affected by rot should be replaced.
Tips! Wash the facade every two years to reduce the risk of algae and mould growth.
Yes. All surfaces to be oiled must first be cleaned with a wash brush and detergent. If the surfaces are affected by fungus, clean them with a special mould detergent. Rinse thoroughly with water and allow to dry before proceeding. Once the wood has dried, sand to remove any wood grain, dirt, sharp edges at the ends, knots and roughness around screws, for example.
If you scrape so wood is showing, the wood must be impregnated with base oil.
A façade painter needs at least two brushes. A wide bevel brush that takes up a lot of paint, so you don’t have to dip as much, and a radiator brush for all those hard-to-reach areas. For distemper/red paints, a good emulsion brush is suitable.
Tip: Choose the width of the facade brush according to the width of the facade panel. If the panel is about 100 mm wide, choose a 100 mm outdoor brush that covers the entire width of the panel to make the job easier and faster. Also remember that you may need more brushes if there are more of you painting, so the work will go even faster.
Also have an extension pole handy. You’ll reach further from both the ground and the ladder, and spare your back and arms.
Excess oil should be wiped off before it dries out and gets ugly. Put oil-soaked rags in a tin bucket as soon as you’re done with them – they can self-ignite! Then soak the rags in water or burn them as soon as possible.
Check the windows every year. If you see cracks in the putty and paint at the bottom of the window frames, it’s a sign that it’s time to repaint. This is where the windows are most vulnerable. If the window is otherwise good, it may be enough to paint the bottom piece and about 20 cm up the sides. But remember that even if you’re only going to paint the base, it should be done thoroughly.
Windows are less well insulated than other parts of the façade and are constantly exposed to moisture and condensation due to temperature differences between inside and outside. Therefore, it is important to paint the outside of the window with an outdoor paint and the inside with an indoor window paint. Always follow your paint dealer’s recommendations.
It is important that the windows are properly primed on the outside as well, with penetrating primer oil under the paint. Let the primer oil “soak” for a maximum of 30 – 60 minutes before overpainting with primer.
A teak exterior door is easy to maintain. It is only oiled after a thorough cleaning. On the other hand, it should be done every year.
If the door is lightly soiled, washing the dirt off is enough, but if the dirt is a little harder, you may have to sand it off. If the door is very dirty, it may be a good idea to “scrape” off old oil, dirt and weathering, then lightly sand it. Use a recommended teak oil and follow the instructions on the can. Be aware that cotton wool pads used to wipe off excess oil can very easily self-ignite and should therefore be soaked in a jar of water.
It doesn’t matter if it rains on your outdoor furniture. The constant moisture from the ground is worse. Especially if the moisture is in contact with the end wood of the table and chair legs, which absorb 10 times more moisture than the planed sides of a board.
If you want to keep your outdoor furniture for a long time, this is where you can make the most important contribution. The Bucket Lid Trick is well worth trying. Put a paint bucket lid under each leg. Add oil and let the wood soak for a day or so.
Applying oil with a roller is just as good as with a brush, but using a roller saves time and energy. Try Anza’s terrace 2-in-1 tool, which is specially designed for all types of terrace treatments. The pad covers two boards at a time and makes the work go faster than with a regular brush.
Also, don’t forget to use a extension pole to get more power to those big areas. Remember to stroke in the same direction as the grain of the wood.
Avoid oiling the furniture in strong heat and sunshine. The oil then dries too quickly without impregnating the surface. It is best to paint in late spring, when both the wood and the air are dry and cool.
Fresh wood oil is a poor base for opaque paint. Instead, apply a thin coat of impregnating oil before painting.
Paint larger areas with a paintbrush. Work the paint in the direction of the wood grain. Finish by smoothing with long, light strokes.
Apply wood oil liberally to wooden surfaces. Wipe off excess oil before it dries and gets ugly with a cloth. Place oil-soaked rags in a tin bucket with water immediately. They can self-ignite! Soak the rags in water or burn them as soon as you can.
Wood facing damp ground must be impregnated. Put a paint bucket lid under each leg. Add oil and let the wood soak for a day or so.
Be aware that new pressure-treated wood contains mould-inhibiting additives that make it unsuitable for direct painting. Only after a year can it be painted over with paint or varnish.
Untreated wood that is to be topcoated should first be impregnated with standard base oil. Then sand with fine sandpaper before painting on with an outdoor paint.
Paint edges and details first. Take a little paint on the brush and paint thinly, otherwise the paint will run easily between the slats and boards. The paint covers better if you paint several coats.
To get a smooth finish, finish with a light swipe of the paint in the direction of what you’ve already painted. It is not visible where you lift the brush on the painted surface. But it shows where you put the brush in the wet paint.
